Breakfast with Rasputin, Jewels for Fabergé: the Legacy behind the Maison OHLIGUER

OHLIGUER was born from a story threaded with grandeur and survival, one that still shimmers in every jewel created by sisters Jessica and Holly Cooper. Their maison does not simply design luxury: it carries forward a lineage where artistry, resilience, and daring modernity meet.

Jeweller and designer Jessica

The OHLIGUER story begins in the Ural Mountains of Russia, where Jessica and Holly’s great-great-grandfather owned vast mines that supplied gemstones to the royal court and the legendary Carl Fabergé.

Their great-grandmother, once married to the cousin of the last Tsar, presented to King George V, Queen Mary, and Queen Alexandra, and known to breakfast with Rasputin, fled the empire at the height of the revolution. With jewels sewn into her undergarments and her newborn hidden beneath a basket of fruit, she embarked on a journey through Shanghai before finally settling in Australia.

OHLIGUER’s Grandmother

That blend of peril, resilience, and opulence lives on in OHLIGUER’s creations. Jessica, a trained sculptor and goldsmith, honed her artistry with years of meticulous training in Australia, before completing a Master in Jewelry Design in Rome. There, under the guidance of jewelry greats at Bvlgari, she refined the design philosophy that would anchor OHLIGUER’s identity. “When I trained with Luca Bartoleschi, Bvlgari’s retired Design Director, he asked me: What will be the iconic OHLIGUER jewel of Australia?” Jessica recalls. The answer came in the form of The Croc Collection, the brand’s inaugural line.

The Croc Tail Cuff in 18ct yellow, white and rose gold

Inspired by the saltwater crocodile, one of Australia’s most formidable creatures, the Croc Collection captures its prehistoric strength through sculptural silhouettes and extraordinary materials. Featuring Argyle pink diamonds, Australian akoya pearls, and yellow and white diamonds, the collection channels both Australia’s natural wonders and the family’s enduring spirit.

For OHLIGUER, luxury is not defined by excess but by meaning. “Luxury is evocative,” Jessica explains. “It combines iconic design, exceptional craftsmanship, remarkable and sustainable materials, and an authentic story to empower self-expression.”

Icon Croc 4ct Ruby Earrings in 18ct white gold

Ethics and provenance are central. OHLIGUER works only with ethically sourced gold and certified gemstones, often preferring antique diamonds and traceable Australian stones.

8ct Emerald Knot ring in platinum with diamond encrusted ropes

Hollywood’s stylists have already taken notice: OHLIGUER has adorned Madonna, Gwen Stefani, Doechii, and Zoë Kravitz. The Knot collection, with platinum ropes encrusted with pink diamonds and otherworldly pearls, cemented the maison’s signature: bold yet elegant, sculptural yet wearable.

8.57ct Colombian Emerald Knot Ring in 22ct yellow gold, diamonds and platinum. 6ct Tourmaline Knot ring set in 18ct rose gold and rubies

Now, OHLIGUER prepares to unveil its first bridal line, reimagining tradition through an anti-bride lens, offering jewelry for those who want individuality rather than convention.

Lover’s Croc Earrings in 18ct yellow gold. Croc tail Huggies with South Sea pearls in 18ct rose gold. Lover’s Croc pearl collar with Golden South Sea Pearls in 18ct yellow gold and yellow diamonds

The maison is also looking inward, with its RESET initiative, inviting clients to transform old jewels into fresh OHLIGUER designs. This reflects the family’s heritage: a past carefully preserved, yet constantly reimagined for the present. As the maison grows, it remains rooted in its heritage while looking to the future. Recently, in September 2025, OHLIGUER showcased its amazing jewelry in New York City for a selected clientele.

The Croc Tail Icon ring with 4ct Pear cut diamond in platinum with diamonds

I had the pleasure to interview Jessica Cooper, Co-Founder and Designer of OHLIGUER.

Q: OHLIGUER has such a dramatic family history. Do you feel this legacy shaped your path as a jeweller?
It certainly drew me, without my knowledge or understanding. I tried to find another path for myself in sculpture, in photography, however, I was inexorably drawn to jewelry. It felt less like a conscious choice, it was a destiny shaped by my forebears’ legacy.

Q: What does luxury mean to you personally?
Luxury is an awakening, not only in terms of the senses, but of possibility. It is the act of going beyond the essential and reaching toward what feels almost impossible.

Q: You’ve worked with extraordinary materials — Argyle pink diamonds, Lightning Ridge opals, antique stones. How does it feel to work with such rare treasures?
Inspiring. I think of my forebears, I think of my great-grandmother adorned with Fabergé’s creations, juxtaposed with her escape from Russia to Australia and the strength and fortitude with which she was able to escape and carve a new life for herself and her daughter.

Q: OHLIGUER has already adorned icons like Madonna and Zoë Kravitz. What do you think draws such women to your designs?
I believe it is the symbolism of the pieces. Fierce calls unto fierce. All the icons that wear our pieces are powerful and I like to think that my designs amplify that power. The power to be magnetic and unapologetic in terms of self-expression and authentic reinvention.

Q: And what is next for OHLIGUER?
New York in November for private client meetings and Hawaii early next year where we will be hosting an exclusive trunkshow with a dear friend and fellow designer Morgan Mackintosh of LÖF.

10.51ct Peach Tourmaline Reef Knot ring in 18ct yellow gold and yellow diamonds