Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan and a significant hub for the gem and jewelry trade, warmly welcomed delegates from across the globe to attend the CIBJO CONGRESS from October 3 to 5, 2023, with pre-congress meetings on October 1 and 2. The congress took place at the prestigious Hotel Fairmont.
Hotel Fairmont, Jaipur
The 2023 Congress was hosted by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and co-hosted by the National Gem & Jewellery Council of India (NGJCI), with the support of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry and the MSME Ministry of the Government of India. The inaugural session was graced by prominent figures, including Shri Piyush Goyal, Union Minister of Commerce and Industry, Mr. Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, Mr. Vipul Shah, Chairman of GJEPC, Mr. Pramod Kumar Agarwal, Vice President of India Cibjo and Chairman of NGJCI, Mr. R. Arulanandan, Director, Department of Commerce, Government of India, Ms. Feriel Zerouki, President of the World Diamond Council (WDC), Mr. Yoram Dvash, President of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), Mr. Damien Cody, President of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA).
Delegates from various corners of the world came together to participate in the numerous working groups and commissions, all dedicated to advancing one of the organization’s primary objectives: fostering consumer confidence within the jewelry industry, particularly in matters related to terminology, standards, and trade guidelines. It was clear that further education was essential across the entire supply chain.
The Congress was impeccably organized and provided a unique opportunity to connect with the leading figures in the jewelry industry. CIBJO Congresses are the meeting point for the World Jewellery Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates. They also host the yearly sessions of CIBJO‘s specialized commissions, which provide the opportunity to propose changes to the organization’s authoritative guides containing international industry standards for diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, gem laboratories, precious metals, coral and ethical sourcing. These guides are collectively referred to as the “Blue Books.”
Mr. Gaetano Cavalieri, President, CIBJO, said in his welcome address, “CIBJO is the oldest international jewellery association in the world and will celebrate 100 years in Year 2026. CIBJO Congress is being held again after almost 4 years (2019 CIBJO Congress at Bahrain) and the world and industry has changed considerably. The experience of visiting India is overwhelming as India is a country which excites all the senses. The pandemic was an unimaginable yet transformative event; but the trade has now adapted to the new circumstances showing its inherent resilience. Business models of fine jewellery players are evolving rapidly. G7 countries, which accounted for half of all jewellery sales, will be introducing new norms and standards with respect to traceability, trust and transparency. CIBJO is a trusted organisation, which protects interests of members. It prescribes policy framework to enable and empower industry to put in place tools to operate within law to remain as transparent, honest, sustainable and responsible. We shall discuss and review all matters of international relevance for the trade. However, of 17 sustainable goals of the UN – Partnership is the most important one.”
Mr. Gaetano Cavalieri, President CIBJO
Mr. Pramod Kumar Agarwal, Vice President, India, CIBJO and Chairman, NGJCI, said: “We are glad that more than 135 overseas delegates, including representatives of some of the top global jewellery brands are attending the CIBJO Congress.”
Mr. Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC, said: “Jaipur is a fitting location for CIBJO Congress as it is a living, breathing testament to the craft and artistry that our industry possesses. As a global leader, India continues to shape the gem and jewellery landscape, serving as both a beacon of time-honoured craftsmanship and a hub for innovation.”
The CIBJO Congress 2023 boasted an impressive array of sections, catering to the diverse facets of the jewelry industry.
About CIBJO
The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) covers the entire jewelry, gemstone and precious metals sectors – vertically, from mine to marketplace, and horizontally within each of the component parts in the various production, manufacturing and trading centres. Its members are not individuals, but rather representative associations or commercial bodies. They include national and international trade organizations from more than 45 countries around the world and many of the international jewelry sector’s leading corporations and service providers. The Confederation is also the only organisation in the international diamond, gemstone and jewelry sectors to have received official consultative status with the Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC) of the United Nations. This enables it to advance programmes and goals of the UN within the industry, serving as a technical expert, adviser and consultant to governments and the UN Secretariat. It additionally is a member of the UN Global Compact and is committed to the fulfilment of the Sustainable Development Goals.
Responsible Sourcing, Sustainability and ESG practices, emphasizing ethical and environmentally conscious approaches. The event also delved into the world of Jewelry Brands, examining their role and impact within the market. Furthermore, discussions revolved around the feasibility of internationally recognized standards within the jewelry sector, while the Ethics Commission addressed matters of moral significance. Special sessions shone a spotlight on Colored Gemstone Responsible Sourcing, Diamonds, Fei Cui, and Precious Metals. Notably, the Congress featured exclusive presentations by prominent industry figures, such as Gaetan Guillosson, India Country Manager at Cartier and Sean Gilbertson, CEO of Gemfields, adding an extra layer of expertise and insight to this remarkable gathering.
In a panel discussion focusing on ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) and responsible practices, speakers also urged industry players to engage in more and better storytelling to communicate jewelry products better to consumers. The session was moderated by John Mulligan, President of the CIBJO Sustainable Development Commission, who also is the Climate Lead at the World Gold Council.
“Fundamental changes are needed through partnerships. We need more ambition, and we need systematic change,” said Iris Van Der Veken, Executive Director and Secretary General of the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030.
Ms. Van Der Veken
Ms. Van Der Veken appealed for the creation of an integrated data system to capture the needs of the industry as it works to raise responsible standards across the board.
Melanie Grant, Executive General of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), said that, based on her experience as a journalist, freely available data about key trends in the global jewelry business was hard to find.
“The industry needs more access to data” she said, adding that more effective story telling was an essential component for brands and suppliers to communicate their strengths to consumers.
ESG consultants Jon Key and Helen Mitchell also spoke of the need for more insightful storytelling to increase the quality of communications about jewelry offered across the retail spectrum.
Milan-based jewelry historian and author Alba Cappellieri, who is full Professor at the jewelry design department, Politecnico di Milano, said that the jewelry industry needs to invest more in education to raise standards in the future.
“Please believe more in education and support more education in the jewellery industry” she said, calling on CIBJO to establish an education forum.
Ms. Cappellieri added that AI will transform the future of the jewelry industry in a multiplicity of ways and can be used to help boost standards and responsible practices.
Feriel Zerouki, President of the World Diamond Council (WDC), spoke of the need to foster fairness among industry players in order to achieve ESG goals and sustainability.
“To be ethical we need to be equitable” she said, referring to the path to sustainability from responsible practices to improving ethical standards. She made her point by a describing two people, one short and one tall, paying the same price for a concert ticket, even though the taller one is likely to see the performance, while the other’s view is impeded. “True equality exists only if opportunity if equitable,” she said. “In some cases, people deserve to be boosted.”
“Responsible sourcing also means ‘do no harm’ – she added. “Ethical means be kind and good to your employees.”
Helen Mitchell, Alba Cappellieri, Iris Van der Veker, Gaetano Cavalieri, Feriel Zerouki, Melanie Grant
Over recent years, there has been greater interest in responsible sourcing, with consumers and investors wanting to understand if the products they buy have been ethically sourced. The jewelry industry is expected to exhibit a high level of commitment to environmental protection and ethical standards. Exciting moments during the 2nd session of the CIBJO Congress 2023, focused on the jewelry Brands. Iris Van der Veken as a moderator along with Anouchka Didier Mansour, Cartier, Richemont, Francesca Manfredi from Kering (connecting remotely), Milan Choksi from Jewels by Moksh, and Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, discussed the crucial topics of education, traceability, social justice and the sustainability challenges that the jewelry industry must tackle together.
Ms. Iris Van Der Veken declared: “As an industry of Beauty, Art and Emotions, we have a double responsibility to care and to act. The time is now to strengthen transparency and build solid responsible value chains. Fundamental changes are needed through long term partnerships. We need more ambition and action on the ground to create long term systematic change. We need to change people lives positively on the ground. The consumer deserves trust and integrity and that is non- negotiable.”
An insightful discussion at the afternoon session focused on the efforts of CIBJO to finalize ISO Standard 6893. This standard will bring significant advantages to the diamond industry by establishing guidelines and terminology for quality control of diamonds weighing 0.25 carats or less. Esteemed speakers, including Ed Johnson (moderator), Jonathan Jodry, Chair, ISO Technical Committee 174 (ISO/TC 174), Jean-Pierre Chalain, Convenor of the Working Group on Diamonds, gemstones and) related products, Technical Committee 174, International Organization for Standardization (ISO), Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer, Patrick Loetscher, Head of Watch Industry Standards Department (NIHS) at Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), Dominique Dubugnon, Special Project Manager, Product & Process Improvement, Standardization, Swatch Group Quality Management shared their insights on this topic.
The Special Coloured Gemstone Responsible Sourcing Session included a panel of speakers with David Brough (moderator), Kimberley Collins, President of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), Sean Gilbertson, CEO, Gemfields, John Ford, CEO, AGTA Jenna White, Colorado School of Mines, Doug Hucker, ICA CEO, Damien Cody, ICA President, Longo Mulaisho-Zinsner, Jewellery and Gemstone Association of Africa, Sunil Agrawal, Managing Director, Vaibhav Global. They discussed about the best practices and guidelines for maintaining transparency and traceability in the highly complex international colored gemstone supply chain.
Among the key messages stressed during the session was that the sector, led by industry associations, needs to invest more in the education and training of diggers, including how to run their own businesses. Colored gemstone companies were also called on to invest in beneficiation projects in impoverished mining areas, to bring much-needed infrastructure to artisanal diggers, such as potable water supplies. Sustained efforts are also needed to instil gender equality across all mining communities.
From left Sunil Agrawal, CEO of Vaibhav Global Ltd.; Jenna White, a doctoral student the Colorado School of Mines; John Ford, of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA); Kimberley Collins, President of AGTA; Sean Gilbertson, CEO of Gemfields; Damien Cody, President of the International Coloured Stone Association (ICA); Douglas Hucker, CEO of ICA; Longo Mulaisho-Zinsner, a founder of the Jewellery and Gemstone Association of Africa (JGAA); and David Brough, Editor and Publisher of the global digital trade magazine Jewellery Outlook, who was the panel’s moderator.
The Diamond Commission saw speakers from the International diamond industry including India, providing deep insights into the state of the Indian diamond industry, demand for Chinese diamond jewelry and diamond pricing dynamics. The speakers of the panel included Sabyasachi Ray, ED, GJEPC, Simon Hiu, Director, Diamond Management Centre, Chow Tai Fook, and Mahiar Borhanjoo, CEO, Uni Diamonds and Udi Sheintal, President, Diamond Commission as the moderator of the panel.
“We’re coming back to naturals” said Udi Sheintal, president of the CIBJO Diamond Commission. “Played correctly, the market can expand because the natural-diamond business is linked with consumer emotions.”
Mahiar Borhanjoo, CEO of UNI Diamonds, addressing the session of the Diamond Commission at the 2023 CIBJO Congress. Also on the podium (from left) are Sabyisachi Ray, CEO of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC); Udi Sheintal, President of the Diamond Commission; and Simon Hui, Director of the Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group’s Diamond Management Centre.
The CIBJO Pearl Commission session deliberated on the pearl sustainability section, entitled “Social, Environmental and Economic Impact of Natural and Cultured Pearls”, that will be added to the CIBJO Pearl Guide. Distinguished speakers from the session included Kenneth Scaratt, President of Pearl Commission and the Vice Presidents Rui Galopim De Carvalho and Shigeru Akamatsu.
“The spread of microplastics in the world’s oceans will erode the quality of pearl molluscs and nacre if unchecked, potentially limiting the supply of higher quality natural and cultured pearls in the longer term” – said Kenneth Scarratt, President of the CIBJO Pearl Commission
Pearl Commission President Kenneth Scarratt, speaking during the Pearl Commission session. He is flanked by Rui Galopim de Carvalho (left), Vice President of CIBJO’s Sector A, and Shigeru Akamatsu, the Pearl Commission’s Vice President
The Precious Metals Commission session went through regulatory issues in the U.S. and examined the gold, platinum, palladium and silver markets in 2022-23.
The panel of speakers included:
Huw Daniel, President, Precious Metals Commission,
Jonathan Jodry, Business Development Director at Metalor Technologies SA, and Chair, ISO Technical Committee 174 (ISO/TC 174), International Organization for Standardization (ISO), Larry Drummond, Executive Director at International Precious Metals Institute (IPMI), Doug Henry, CEO and Assay Master of the Birmingham Assay Office, Sara Yood and Karina Ratzlaff, Precious Metals Vice President.
The Coral Commission session involved the tabling of the Coral Book Amendments that are aimed at determining appropriate nomenclature for the biogenic gem material. Panel speakers included President Mr. Enzo Liverino, Italy, Vice President, Mr. Rui Galopim De Carvalho Portugal, Vice President, Mr. Kenneth Scarratt, Thailand.
CIBJO’s Coral Commission has reinforced its differentiation of the definition of precious coral from reef coral, in order to more clearly identify the precious coral used for jewellery.
The CIBJO’s Coral Commission has further clarified the distinction between precious coral and reef coral to more precisely identify the coral used in jewelry. This clarification was made during a meeting held on October 5 at the 2023 CIBJO Congress, chaired by Vincenzo Liverino, the President of the Commission, with the support of Vice Presidents Rui Galopim de Carvalho and Kenneth Scarratt.
The group agreed to make some minor semantic changes. However, a significant focus of the commission’s work is education, particularly in assisting both industry members and the jewelry-buying public in understanding the distinctions between precious corals, which thrive in deeper, colder waters and are less affected by global warming and ocean acidification, and the more commonly known reef and common corals, which are more vulnerable to these environmental challenges.
The CIBJO Commission has recommended that the precious corals suitable for fine jewelry should be harvested from depths exceeding 50 meters below the ocean’s surface and have a trunk width of at least 7 millimeters, following the European suggestion made by GFCM (FAO). Specialized, highly trained scuba divers are capable of reaching such depths to access precious coral, but the scientists of the Commission, are studying the sustainability of Robots (ROV), for harvesting coral that lives more deep (1.000 meters).
On the other hand, common corals, including reef corals, are generally not used in precious jewelry and are more likely to be considered endangered by CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, which is an international agreement among governments aimed at ensuring that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten species’ survival. Currently, no precious coral varieties are restricted by CITES, and a significant portion of the materials used by the industry are derived comes from corals deposits of not living material that perished many years ago.
“The President is satisfied for the immensely works made by the commission members and very proud as the steering committee rich new important people and now can count on the collaboration with important Associations and Institutions. In view of the next year Congress in China, we have two Chinese gem experts” – said Mr. Liverino.
The Coral Commission in session on October 5, the final day of the 2023 CIBJO Congress (from left): Rui Galopim de Carvalho, the commission’s Vice President; Vincenzo Liverino, the commission’s President; and Kenneth Scarratt, also a commission Vice President.
During the session of the Laboratory-Grown Diamond Commission, the 2023 LGD Guidelines were reviewed, the new ESG LGD Guidelines were introduced and future steps were discussed. The panel of speakers included Wesley Hunt, Director of Programme Management at De Beers Consumer & Brands, Jon Key, Consultant to CIBJO and the LGD Committee, Helen Mitchell of Kay & Co., Raluca Anghel, Head of External Affairs and Industry Relations at the Natural Diamond Council, and Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO.
Laboratory Grown Diamond commission
These are only some highlights of the interesting commissions and panels that I had the chance to attend.
The Congress achieved many important results and was a valuable opportunity for meetings with key stakeholders in the jewelry industry.
It was also for some of us a discovery of the rich Indian culture.
Laura Astrologo Porché and Mr. Gaetano Cavalieri
I would like to express my gratitude and that of the jewelry community for everything that has been accomplished by CIBJO, its President Mr. Gaetano Cavalieri and all the delegates.
For more info look @ www.cibjo.org/cibjo-news
Article edited by Laura Astrologo Porché
Instagram: @journaldesbijoux
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